Herringbone Wall

So, you want to create a beautiful, original woodworking piece on a wall (or walls?!) in your space, and you need some guidance. Here is everything you need to complete this project on your own.

You can do it! Just, let me be your shortcut!

Materials/Tools:

• Plumb Bob

• Air Compressor Kit with Nail Guns and Stapler (this one is currently one sale!)

• Level

• Tape Measure

• Pencil

• Sharpie

• Wood- 1x4x8 Pine (if you're painting), 1x4x8 MDF (if you're painting and want an extra smooth look), 1x4x8 Maple (if you're staining), or Reclaimed Wood (rustic look)

• Wood Filler

• Spacers

• Miter Saw

• Stud Finder

• Speed Square

• Oscillating Saw

• Straight-edge

• Spackle

• Putty Knife

• Jigsaw

• Sandpaper

1. Use a Stud Finder, and mark the studs. Generally, they run every 16 inches. This is so when nailing in the slats of wood, you are making sure to go into the stud for a more secure hold. Use a Plumb Bob to help with a straight vertical line. ((Scroll to end for instructions on how to use a plumb bob))

2. Measure the width, mark center. Measure height, mark center. Make sure you have a cross hatch (+), this will be your exact center of the wall.

3. Start installing the wood. Make a mark on the center of the board. Using a Speed Square, line up the center of the wood and center line of the wall just below the horizontal line, and use a speed square to make sure it's on a 45 degree angle. Nail in place. *I ran my first piece to the floor trim. I wanted a less chevron-esque look. You can use whatever size boards you want.

4. Adding second piece, line it up against the first and double-check with the speed square.

5. As you add pieces of wood, you need to add spacers between boards. The spaces will make the herringbone more dramatic when painted (I always like to paint the wall black, first. It will just look like truly a space between boards. I like to use these 1/16" Spacers. They are thin and work perfectly.

6. Continue adding pieces, using spacers as you go. Once you get the first few pieces on the wall, it goes pretty fast.

7. When you reach the side of the wall, ceiling and floor trim, you need to cut on a 45 degree angle. I like to use the long side measurement, which is the longest side of the piece you're measuring to cut. Or, you can cut the end at a 45 degree angle, then hold it up to the wall and mark the length it needs to be for the 90 degree cut. *You have to cut around outlets or light switches. I mark the area with a Sharpie and cut it out using this Oscillating Saw. *If you have to cut around multiple edges, use a piece of paper to make a pattern. Trace the pattern onto the wood and cut out using a jigsaw.

8. Painting the wall: Fill tiny nail holes with spackling with your finger, then remove excess with a putty knife.(see picture). I like this product, because it's pink when wet and turns white when dry. When the spackle is dry, sand smooth with 220 grit sandpaper.

9. When painting, lightly load up roller pan with paint. Too much paint will squish through the cracks that you took extra time to prepare so the herringbone look would pop.

* How To Use a Plumb Bob *

Use a nail or a tack to hand string at the stud mark, let plumb bob go to almost the floor. When it stops swinging, tack the string to the wall. Make several marks along the line on the wall. Remove plumb bob, then connect the lines with a long straight-edge. Also, make a center horizontal line.